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Juerg Feldmann

Fortiori Design LLC
Registered:
Posts: 1,530
 #1 
Here some   feed backs  from MOXY " players  around the world. Not ordered  or valued just  real live feed backs. on how the increasing  users  of MOXY  starts  to create  an increasing  area  of expertise  and practical applications. 
 - Here  an email feedback.

Hi Roger and Juerg

Sorry for the big delay in response, I have been testing both the Physioflow and some CPET machines (Cortex MetaMax 3B and the Cosmed K4b2). Both CPET are having difficulty with VO2 measurements and elevated FiO2 and the physioflow has only worked 50% of the time so far. Electrode placement has been very annoying :/

The CPET VO2 measures have been a topic of great annoyance to me and I may have to visit Cosmed HQ to sort it out.

The Moxys in comparison are a dream to work with! I haven't bothered to run them in real time (eq PeriPedal as I am tempted to write my own recording software instead) but will probably purchase the best software soon for use on the patients.


Here  a  fun case study  in short    and if you are interested in the  bigger pictures  see PP.

Sent to us  from Mary Ann Kelly  ( Moxyexpert ) on the west coast  ( California)
 It is a case study done during the USA  rock climbing champion ship in Santa  Ana CA  Sender one  climbing center.
 An attempt  to  critically look  at a option  for climbing  zoning  for endurance applications.

Here a pic  of the climbing center  and a  live  action, where a climber uses  MOXY  and gets  an instant feedback.

climbing 1.jpg 

  Than a  MOXY assessment on a versa climber  by looking at  arm and leg activities  and trends
zoning versa climber.jpg 


The dark green is SmO2  ( oxygenation trend in the legs. The bright green is SmO2  in the arm)
 Thank you  to the Versa  Climber  company to  support this study during the event.)

Here  for the  more interested  reader in depth  some more feed backs.
 The case study was supported  by Versa  Climber,  Swinco and EUK  R+ D  as well as  from Fortiori   and Sender One.  The study was conducted  by Mary Ann Kelly  and a  random  Volunteer   participant  at the  USA Climbing champion ship )

 
Attached Files
pptx case_study_Mary_Ann_2014.pptx (2.08 MB, 22 views)

Juerg Feldmann

Fortiori Design LLC
Registered:
Posts: 1,530
 #2 
Here  some additional feedback  from Mary Ann. The critical reader will see the forearm reaction in the Versa climber study  and likes  to see how real climbing reacts on forearm.
 Here  three  loading sets  and the way   future climbing coaches  can  create individual    climbing programs.
 
20130809_210631.jpg

The coach  can  give live  feedback over  the arm  watch or a bigger screen like Peripedal on when to stop  or  how to change technique as they climb.
 Here a  3 set  workout  , where the goal was  to climb but  avoid  Art. occlusion  .
real forearm reaction in climbing.jpg 


Here a comparsion  for you to see how we  use MOXY for practical application  and how other groups  do studies .

J Sports Med Phys Fitness. 1996 Dec;36(4):255-60.

Acute changes in handgrip strength, endurance, and blood lactate with sustained sport rock climbing.

Watts P1, Newbury V, Sulentic J.

Author information

  • 1Exercise Science Laboratory, Northern Michigan University, Morquette, USA.

Abstract

BACKGROUND:

Modern rock climbers stress the importance of hand-to-rock contact strength as a factor for success in competitive sport climbing events, however, the degree of handgrip fatigue that occurs during difficult climbing and the time course of recovery from fatigue have not been previously described. The purpose of this study was to characterize the nature of handgrip fatigue that results from difficult continuous climbing until a fall occurs.

METHODS:

Eleven expert-level rock climbers (age = 28.7 +/- 4.5 years) volunteered to climb continuous laps over a pre-set competition-type route on an indoor modular climbing wall until a fall occurred. The route difficulty (YDS rating of 5.12 a) was near the limit of each subject's "on-sight" lead climbing ability and placed an emphasis on physically difficult movements. "On-sight" refers to a climbing style where the climber ascends the route on the first try without falls and without prior viewing or information about the route. Practice was allowed to enable each subject to master the individual technical movements of the route. Fingertip blood samples were obtained 10 min pre-climb, at post-climb, and at 5-, 10-, and 20-min recovery and analyzed for lactate. Maximum handgrip force in Newtons was determined via dynamometry for each hand and averaged for pre-climb, post-climb, and 5-, 10-, and 20-min recovery periods. Right handgrip endurance, defined as the time that the dominant hand handgrip force could be sustained above 70 percent of handgrip strength, was determined pre-climb, post-climb, and at 20-min recovery.

RESULTS:

Mean climbing time during testing was 12.9 +/- 8.5 min for 2.8 +/- 2.2 laps over the route. Data among measurement times were analyzed using a repeated measures ANOVA with Newman-Keuls post hoc tests. Handgrip strength decreased by 22 percent and handgrip endurance decreased by 57 percent from pre-climb to post-climb and both remained depressed after 20 minutes of resting recovery. The pre-climb blood lactate of 1.4 +/- 0.8 mmol.l-1 significantly increased to 6.1 +/- 1.4 mmol.l-1 at post-climb and remained elevated (2.3 +/- 0.8 mmol.l-1) at 20-min recovery. Percent decreases in handgrip strength were significantly correlated with climbing time (R = 0.70), number of laps completed (R = 0.70), and blood lactate (R = 0.76). Percent decreases in handgrip endurance were significantly correlated with climbing time (R = 0.70) and number of laps completed (R = 0.80), but not with blood lactate (R = 0.56).

CONCLUSIONS:

It was concluded that handgrip strength and handgrip endurance decrease with continuous difficult rock climbing and remain depressed after 20 minutes of resting recovery. It also appears that handgrip strength recovers at a faster rate than handgrip endurance.


2.

Active recovery strategies and handgrip performance in trained vs. untrained climbers.

Green JG1, Stannard SR.

Author information

  • 1Institute of Food, Nutrition and Human Health, Massey University, Palmerston, New Zealand. j.green@massey.ac.nz

Abstract

Isometric contractions, such as occurring during rock climbing, occlude blood flow to the active musculature. The ability to maximize forearm blood flow between such contractions is a likely determinant of intermittent handgrip performance. This study aimed to test the hypothesis that intermittent isometric handgrip performance is improved by 2 common active recovery strategies suggested to increase muscle blood flow. On 6 separate occasions, 9 trained indoor rock climbers and 9 untrained participants undertook a fatiguing, intermittent, isometric handgrip exercise bout consisting of sets of 6 contractions (approximately 33% of maximal voluntary contraction [MVC] force), each 3-second long separated by a 1-second rest. Between sets, participants were allowed 9-second recovery performing passive rest, "shaking out" (vigorously shaking the hand), or grasping a handgrip vibration machine, each with or without forearm occlusion. Performance was assessed by pre- and post-exercise MVC trials and a 20-contraction post-exercise handgrip time trial (TT20). Trained climbers exhibited significantly greater handgrip MVC force and intermittent exercise capacity than untrained (p < 0.01). There was no effect of recovery strategy on any measure (p > 0.05). Trained climbers were more affected by occlusion than untrained in MVC (p < 0.05) and TT20 (p < 0.01). Shaking out and low-frequency vibration are unlikely to affect rock climbing performance. It is recommended that rock climbers and their coaches focus on optimizing body position rather than compromising body position to allow for shaking out

 


Juerg Feldmann

Fortiori Design LLC
Registered:
Posts: 1,530
 #3 
Here a nice  study  sent to us  from Boulder  by a successful bike coach. comparing left and right leg on a bike. Look and think  what he may have  figured out or at least  what questions do we  have to ask?
thb r l.jpg

Juerg Feldmann

Fortiori Design LLC
Registered:
Posts: 1,530
 #4 
Here a nice datacollection  from a regular  MOXY user  from Slovenia. It is as it looks a  5 min step test. 2 Moxy's used. one on the leg  and one on the deltoideus pars  dorsales.
 So one muscle heavily  involved  and one  most likly  involved  as the intensity is increasing  and we start  to pull or push on the 5 min step  leg  and  delta.jpg  handle bar.  look at SmO2  trends  first.  dark green leg  light green  delta.
  Make  the  " physiological zoning" on each  SmO2  trace independent  from each other. What  do you see ? Is there a difference in the Moxygenation trend in Zoning ?

 Now here   make the zoning ased on lood  volume /Flow  y looking at tH trend.

leg and shoulder  tHb  all.jpg 


What is different here ? Now in anysrep test we  can only  see  at the end, where and when the  loodflow /voume may have een altered  due to differetn reasons.
 Her a closer look at the end. IN a 5/1/5 TIP  we  would have the inforation  as it appears  which may e  just at the end  ut as well it  could e  somewhere earlier.

end stage  thb   shoulder  and  legs.jpg

You can see, that the  reason of the increase in tH  in teh two tested muscles where different. What was reason for the legs  and what was the reason for the delta ?

Juerg Feldmann

Fortiori Design LLC
Registered:
Posts: 1,530
 #5 
Here  another  very nice feedback  supporting our efforts  to move  ahead in physiological bio marker use  and in this case with MOXY.

From  P.G

 Hi! Yesterday I was in Stockholm (Sweden), I spoke in conference in very important international congress. I showed my work with Moxy and Wimu in my team. Everybody was so interested about the device. I am glad to help you and thank you for your device because it is fantastic tool for control my players. See you! Regards!
Paulino Granero Gil
Physical coach CSKA Moscow Professional football team.
Enviado desde mi iPhone 

As  this example shows.  MOXY / NIRS  can  very nicely be used  not   just  for  optimal intensity  in endurance sport  but  much more  and much better in strength workouts  and in  information on recovery    after loads.
 The Key  of any  NIRS equipment is  to  be  able to give us  the individual information.  This is  to look at  blood flow  and  on utilization of oxygen as well as  reloading of  oxygen  and    recovering of  " normal " Blood  flow.
 The idea  which is often move  around, that  NIRS  can be used  to  find an alternative  to lactate values is a very  intriguing one  and  we  put a lot of effort into this direction 10 - 15 years back, when  we still somehow  tried  to hang on the idea , that there is  such thing like  a lactate threshold.
 No2  after  all this years of working with NIRS we  really can see, that the direct information  we  can get  and the lag time of  blood lactate is a very different information.
 We  can see  an increase in SmO2  and  an increase in lactate but we  can see as well a decrease in SmO2  and a decrease in lactate.  Example is easy to fond. Take a  400 m all out run or a  shift of a soccer player    , Take SmO2  at the end of the effort  and take lactate,   what do you expect  to see. Than take SmO2 trend  1 3 5  min after  and  the same with lactate.  Do you see what I mean.  There is a fundamental difference between  direct information  and estimate d  options of an indirect information like lactate.
  The idea, that  NIRS trends  can  be used  to  estimate lactate  can go very wrong in many situations like strength , interval but even in a steady state  endurance workout  as we  demonstrate in our  workshops.
  So  lot's to think about , as we  for sure will see soon in the future  many  NIRS Ideas staring to pop up in the ideas  of  developers  and coaches.
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