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Andri

Fortiori Design LLC
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Posts: 65
 #1 
I thought I would add another aspect or in other words, another area of possible application for the MOXY: climbing. The graph shows three different climbs I did and I hope it is self explanatory with the legend. Perhaps someone has some thoughts on this data? cheers!

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Marcel

Development Team Member
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Posts: 54
 #2 
Andri,
Where was the Moxy placed...arm or leg? forearm or tricep? I was wondering what you did during the breaks/stops, were you static or belaying, after each climb your SmO2 level is averages higher (oxygenated). were you warmed up before the mount? Thanks
Andri

Fortiori Design LLC
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Posts: 65
 #3 
Hi Marcel

The MOXY was placed on the forearm, anterior side, right arm, flexor carpi ulnaris I would say.

During the two longs ¨stops¨ I was belaying my partner and picking routes to climb, looking at routes and so on. As you can see during the stops there is still a lot of activity as my forearms are always working. Then there is on section in red identified as a break, this is where I was actually still hanging in the wall taking a longer break in a tricky part of the route. Then there was an attempt, followed by one more break, before I finally got to the finish.

Prior to the mount I did not do any warming up per se. I just started with an easier climb and went up gradually in difficulty. After the climbs you could see, as you identified, some supercompensation in SmO2. The part that I find interesting is during the more difficult climb, where I was working hard after the two breaks in the wall I was unable to desaturate down the the prior low levels. This inability to do so, may be some indication of muscular fatigue, and a possible indicator of how long a training should last. In other words, as soon as you can no longer desaturate down to an identified low the training is over. Just an idea. What are your thoughts? 
Marcel

Development Team Member
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Posts: 54
 #4 
During the hang time were you  still gripping the wall or were your arms relaxed, if it was still gripping or holding on you might not have time to saturate for long enough especially if the arm is above the head (gravity and blood flow)...so perhaps if you had a rest period that was similar in length to the stops during the hangtime then the muscle might have been completely saturated and then able to desaturate again like before. This is just me thinking out loud, I could be wrong.

If the first two breaks were shorter then they might also not have desaturated as much as the last climb? I would imagine that moxy could be used in climbing in a very similar way to in the gym with similar reactions.

Juerg Feldmann

Fortiori Design LLC
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Posts: 1,530
 #5 
This is a great discussion and I am not surpised it comes from a very  " brain " strong athlete like Marcel. Working with this edge type of technology opens  many new pathways of thoughts and as such will make workouts super interesting. MOXY  may just be the start of some very interesting gym workouts  for people   with   a sense of enjoying the  physiology of their own body.
 II will show in the evening some case studies   and a very close inside view in a  SmO2  activity and potentially the pathway  on how ATP production may be limited  respectively ATP levels may be protected. So stay tuned as we get now down to the actual reasoning on why MOXY is the choice of tool for immediate BIO-feedback information. being in the  game and not reading the report  the day after is the  call.
Andri

Fortiori Design LLC
Registered:
Posts: 65
 #6 
I think a very good way to use MOXY in climbing and potentially other sports, especially strength orientated, is to maximize efficiency. Climbing and many other sports are not about a one rep max, but rather about conservation and efficiency. The use of the MOXY could perhaps help guide in the case of climbing to more efficient climbing techniques through the use of an objective measure. Thoughts?
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